Nov 10 2009 12:48 am
Oh Sara, I stand atop your magnificent beak betwixt your almond eyes. My gaze slides down over the precipice of your thin upper projection and lands easily with a soft, wet smacking sound upon your full, rich, bottom lip. I’d bite it off, I swear to god I would, and chew it up because I am in love woman, in deep, true love.
Sure, there was Feist. Regina Spektor. But none of them compare. Not one of them compares to you.
I’m heading to Michigan, Sara, to catch you a beautiful steelhead. I will bring you the cold, firm steel flesh. And perhaps a new world record brown trout. And a mini keg of Two Hearted.
Until then, with love and unabiding infatuation, yours truly.
Jun 9 2009 8:12 am
We always started at seven but on the first day Chris told me to show up at eight. I knocked on the door for several minutes before it opened. He swayed and stumbled shirtless holding up loose, unbuttoned faded blue jeans while his giant, round, ruined glasses threatened to drop from his bulbous, swollen red nose.
He was leaning back and slightly to the side where his right hand was held upon a goose neck of an arm, single finger extended lazily, others drooping loosely, his eyes traveled in two long, torturous circles, passing over my face slowly without seeing, ultimately settling on my left shoe. His body was contorted in such a way as to appear almost comical had it not been so apparent that he was in pain. He spattered something incomprehensible while wagging his finger vaguely behind the house then disappeared into a haze of cigarette smoke and children’s voices.
I closed the door and walked around the house where I saw a young man on his hands and knees getting fucked by an older Mexican guy who everyone called Conejo. No. That’s not true. His name was Nazario. Still kidding. The young man was actually alone amongst rows of yews and aspens pretending to weed while smoking a cigarette. He was Kyle and this was the second to last time I would ever see him.
Mike secured this summer employment for me at Kalgan’s Gardening in West Chester. Mike had worked for Chris Kalgan on and off for many years so I had some idea what to expect. Chris was an alcoholic. But he somehow managed to run a very successful landscaping company, caring for many historic homes in Chester County, stone and plaster homes with walls twenty inches thick, built in the 1720s, commanding thirty acre lawns dotted with old-growth white oak and beech trees, perched above mill races and vast arrays of outbuildings.
I liked landscaping. The smell of fresh cut grass and two cycle exhaust is a potent aphrodisiac to the would-be philosopher. My individual physical agency was apparent at every turn as I reduced the height of the same grass quite tangibly every week. I pulled weeds from the ground and smoothed over the mulch leaving a once stubbly and ragged landscape now smooth and ordered. I excavated large holes in the ground and put plants in them. I drove a big truck places. I spoke Spanish in the shade at lunch. I enjoyed my sun darkened complexion and hard calloused hands, particularly because I knew I would quit in August.
Kyle and I pretended to weed the nursery and smoked cigarettes.
Around noon we heard Chris yell hoarsely from the house, “Yoooooooo! We’re goin’ on a road trip! Get up here! You’re drivin’!” And so it begins, I thought to myself. Mike had recounted many stories of his time at Kalgan’s that simply involved driving Chris around for hours, taking him to the Alley Bar in the morning and job sites during the day. Chris had earned many DUIs and lost his license to operate a motor vehicle some time ago.
“Where’re we goin’ Chris?”
“Don’t woooorry about it. You got a full tank? We’re gonna need a full tank.”
“Um, no, I don’t have a full tank. We’re taking my car? We should take one of the trucks I think.”
Tilted always to the right, he was yelling quite loudly, spitting with each hard consonant, holding each long vowel for several seconds in a low groan of unhinged timbres , “I wanna take your car duuuude…I’ll buy fuckin’ gas so shut up and let’s goooooo!”
Chris sat up front with his ubiquitous, tall, milky white plastic cup half full of a red liquid I later learned was usually cheap vodka and a splash of fruit punch. He was wearing his jeans, a dark blue, wrinkled, short sleeve collared shirt barely fastened by two buttons, dirty, untied white sneakers and a faded green ball cap with an absurdly long bill, his round, photo-chromatic glasses were beginning to darken in the sunlight.
He told me to pull into Wawa. He leaned back hard in his seat trying to straighten out his legs so he could gain access to the pockets of his jeans. He finally managed to retrieve a significant roll of cash spilling cylindrical twenties and hundreds on the floor and into the cup holders. He had several thousand dollars. He peeled off a twenty and I filled the tank.
“Which way?”
“Get on 202 south. We’re goin’ to Delaware.”
We got on 202 and before Painter’s Crossing Chris was crying. Like trying to catch his breath with a series of short, deep, staccato inhalations that ended with three or four out gassings through loosely closed lips that caused them to flap and make soft, wet smacking sounds. I had been pressing him for the details of our so-called road trip since we left Wawa and he was not terribly forthcoming. He was falling in and out of consciousness and becoming less and less coherent.
“Jus’ keeeeeep driiiiving! Aaaaaaaahm gonna fuck ‘em up! Fuck ‘em uuuuuup!” He was screaming hoarsely through a mouthful of drunken slime working it into a hot mess of froth that broke with each exhalation and splattered on my dash board. When I tried yelling at him he began crying in earnest.
Between sobs, “I’ll fuckeeeen kiiill hiiiim…I’ll fuckeeeen kill that soooon of a bitch…I have a gun and I’ll fuckeeeen uuuse it!” He was rocking back and forth with his knees gathered up awkwardly in his arms sobbing quietly, glycerin drool escaping his lips, drizzling over my parking brake handle like so much Karo syrup.
I yelled at him: “Do you have a fucking gun Chris? Chris? Do. You have. A fucking. Gun?” But it was all to no avail. He was completely gone now, motionless except for the glycerin spittle. I looked back at Kyle.
“He doesn’t have a gun dude. Don’t worry about it.”
I wasn’t as confident as Kyle but I figured I’d persevere until I could extricate myself in a more graceful manner than by kicking Chris out of the moving car on the highway, though the thought did cross my mind. He was in and out of consciousness. Sometimes his large, yellow, rubberized Motorola cell phone would startle him awake but he could never figure out how to answer it. He became frustrated and threw the phone at the dashboard and it bounced into the lower right corner of the windshield causing several cracks to spider web out into the glass at all angles. I yelled at him some more and he continued to sob. I told him he was paying for that and we’d never take my car on a road trip again.
He somehow managed to get us where he apparently wanted to go. It was a large subdivision south of Newark with hundreds of two story, two bath, two car garage, cookie cutter houses stacked up next to each other on an endless arc of lane and cul-de-sac. They were made out of ticky-tacky and they all looked the same. About in the middle of this suburban American normalcy Chris demanded that I pull over. He opened his door and fell half way out of the car onto a nicely manicured lawn, resting on his face and shoulder, right arm pinned between his body and the car seat, feet and knees propped still in the car. His shirt had come open and was tangled around his body exposing a large swath of lily white flank steak bespeckled with small brown freckles and shiny, metallic, purple stretch marks.
He lay there. Motionless. In a stranger’s quiet quarter acre yard. In the middle of Monday. In the middle of May.
Kyle and I yelled at him some more, but ultimately had to scoop him up ourselves and place him back in the car. He managed to tell us that this is where we were meeting “him” and that we had to stay in this neighborhood. “Who are we meeting Chris? Do you have a gun?” I should have left him then and there, but for some reason I didn’t. We drove to the entrance by the neighborhood marquee where he fell out of the car again, laying spread eagle on his back on the bare gray asphalt in the sun. Lily white flank steak blinding the passing traffic.
Only a few minutes had gone by when a green Dodge Ram 1500 rolled slowly into the neighborhood, past our disturbing little showcase and turned around in the first driveway. The truck parked behind my car and a heavily bearded Ernest Hemingway type in dark aviator sunglasses got out. He walked over to Chris and tried to pick him up. My heart was racing. I didn’t say a thing. Hemingway said: “We’ve got to get him up. They’ll call the fuckin’ cops. Chris, you’re a fuckin’ mess dude. What the fuck! You can’t lay in the road like this in the middle of the goddamn day in the middle of this goddamn neighborhood!” He hoisted Chris into the truck cab and drove away without another word.
“Shit Kyle. Let’s get the hell out of here.”
So we left. Driving north on 95 through Wilmington I was relieved but still unnerved. I called Mike and told him the story. He laughed. “Chris doesn’t have a gun man. He hates guns. You can’t leave him down there like that. You should go back and get him.”
“But where the fuck is he? And who the fuck is Hemingway?”
Just then Chris’ rubber phone rang from under the seat. It was Chris himself sounding slightly more coherent. “Wheeeere the fuuuuuck are you! Come pick me uuuuup!”
So we turned around. And went back to the neighborhood. And there was the green truck. And there was Chris. He walked under his own power more or less in a straight line to my car clutching an open, dewy can of Busch in one hand and two more dangling from the six pack rings in the other. He opened the back door and got in. He yelled at us a bit. He was remarkably coherent now and seemingly at ease. He was constantly fishing tiny white bits of pills from a plastic sandwich bag in his pocket, working them quickly with nimble fingers between his narrow, purple lips, swallowing them with Busch.
Chris told me to show up the next day at seven; I was going out with the crew to cut grass. I arrived early on Tuesday and Chris was in the driveway talking to Nazario in his distinctly pained and grumbly, though now slightly less unhinged, timbre. He was completely sober and wearing a plastic yellow hospital bracelet. He had overdosed on oxycontin the night before and had his stomach pumped in the emergency room. Sobered him right up.
Then he died in the autumn time.
Aug 18 2008 8:26 am
The skamania steelhead run out of Lake Michigan hasn't happened yet. It's late. In kind of a big way. It seems fish are starting to trickle into the St. Joseph River in Michigan. These fish will eventually make their way into Indiana. But typically by now the Steelheadsite boards are alive with pictures of guys holding up 40" inch fatties from a mud bank slough 15' wide and local vitriol about the Illinois "license plate hatch." Funny thing is I drive way farther for my skamania mania than do Chicago folk.
Either way, in lieu of another New Mexico post, I'm putting up the first in the "best of the old blog" series. This one's about my first (and only) Lake Michigan Steelhead. It was originally published September 22 2007. I've made some minor revisions.
Enjoy.
The highway hums persistently in the background. The river is flat and muddy mostly, yellow and brown mostly, sandy in some places. Beer cans, Styrofoam worm containers, plastic bags, garbage can lids: various Michigan City cultural artifacts litter the log jams. It’s ninety degrees and humid. The ever present sheen of grease on my forehead does little to dissuade the multitudes of blood sucking insects that swarm exposed skin. My hands are exposed. I swat at the back of them killing three and four mosquitoes at a time, smearing swaths of blood over my knuckles. They get into my nose. Stinging nettles rake my legs and with no balsamic Jewel weed around I plunge into the cool river to ease the burn. And mosquitoes can’t bite underwater.
Indiana is a pit of hell and despair. But there are steelhead here. And salmon.
I woke up at 3am to drive more than two hundred miles to the shores of Lake Michigan where the anadromous fishes of autumn are beginning their annual migration up Trail Creek, Salt Creek, and the Little Calumet River, following their biological orders like good soldiers do. The commando is strong. Little do they know their efforts are mostly in vain. They too were once hatchery brood. They’ll spill their futile gametes all over the river in a sad genuflection to their native cousins swimming strongly in the Pacific. Then they’ll get snagged in the face, taken home on ice trying to breathe the thin, foreign atmosphere, feeling dizzy and disoriented. The youngest son will help dad with the “cleaning”, but while father’s sharpening the knife, junior pokes at the still gleaming eyes until one pops crooked, exposing plastic looking, layered white tissue underneath. Dad tells the kid to stop. Then sticks his knife in the fish’s asshole and cuts open the stomach and the guts spill out.
I arrived at Trail Creek around 6:30am. Still dark. I strapped on my headlamp, rigged my rod, and had filthy, sweaty, unprotected sex with a disgusting 47 year old heroin addict, perm-headed Michigan City prostitute behind the porta potty in the Public Access parking lot just off route 20. Several people saw us.
The sun rised. I fell.
I raced up and down the dirt banks of the river, over tree roots, cigarette butts, and half buried bottles of beer. The mosquitoes were horrible. The worst I’ve ever seen. They feasted on my fat blood. They feasted through my shirt. I let my hair down and tried to evenly distribute the tendrils over my face, forming some sort of faux mosquito netting. It worked pretty well actually, but was incredibly uncomfortable considering it was so hot. And I couldn’t see.
After several hours of racing around, possibly trespassing, I hadn’t seen a single fish. Where were the forty pound Chinooks? The silvery Cohos fresh from the depths of Lake Michigan’s blue-green purity? Fresh from BP’s last illegal ammonia discharge?
I kept my muddy wading boots on and got back in the car. I ate three hardboiled eggs with Tabasco sauce and sliced ham. And some carrots. I drove to another Public Access parking lot further downstream that had fewer prostitutes.
I walked through the woods to the translucent yellow-brown waters and immediately saw my first real fish. A behemoth to be sure. Thirty five, forty inches long? Twenty, thirty pounds? It was a big one and swam away rapidly like a log alive as I blundered in for a closer look.
I fished my way upstream through the swarms of mosquitoes, around impenetrable tangles of logs with cans and lawnchairs pushed tight against the upstream side. Eventually I stumbled across two dead steelhead. So they are here. One was still alive, it turns out. Belly-up in a stagnant pool, but still alive. I wrapped my hand tenderly around his massive tail and gently maneuvered him into cooler, clearer waters. I cradled his soft body with my left hand and held his tail with my right, keeping him upright, his gills pumping quietly while I absurdly sang to him in a low voice, “and I know loving you is not enough, and you know future is as future does.” When I gave up my grasp he turned over, fat white belly like a ball floating down the river over wood and rocks roughly.
A long green shape shudders on the shallow edge of the pool. I’m in a good position. I cast an orange egg at his nose. Nothing. Again. Nothing. Several more times. Nothing. Change flies. A red egg. Several times. Nothing. A chartreuse double bunny. Several times. Nothing. Turks Tarantula with a Caddis nymph dropper. Several times. Nothing. I’ll try my plastic eggs. Smaller than the glo-bug eggs. But when I have the new fly tied on the large green shape has disappeared. But then a pod of ten fish move into the pool, fish of all sizes, just like that. I sink the eggs into the pool for thirty minutes. Nothing.
Thoroughly chewed and exhausted at noon I start to head back downstream to my car. I’ve had enough of Charles Bukowski’s great lakes fishing adventure. Screw Indiana. I trespass briefly to access a shallow bit of river so I can cross to the public side. I walk for ten minutes then cross the river again when the brush becomes thick. I walk another ten minutes. I don’t recognize anything. Where am I? That dark blue pine tree is very conspicuous. I would remember that. Am I lost in Indiana? In the Chicago metro area? Are you kidding me? What if I got lost in the woods in the Chicago metro area?
I’m relieved to find the trail and decide to take another shot at actually fishing, as opposed to walking around the woods getting progressively itchier. I tie on an egg sucking leech (black wooly bugger with a pink chenille head). I step into the river and think I see a large tail flick in a long, deep run upstream along the bank. I cast the fly several times and strip it back slowly. The marabou tail undulates like a hula dancer or an experienced stripper. It looks delicious.
I readjust my faux mosquito net and swat a fresh batch of mosquitoes from my hands, smearing their little blood engorged bodies on my skin. I smear some of it on my cheeks and around my eyes. War paint. On the next cast a fish hit my fly with fifteen pounds of salmonid ferocity so stunning that I cried out loud, “holy fucking christ!” He makes a long first run upstream, stripping forty or so feet of line from the reel as my cheap drag screams its scared little whine. I palm the reel to slow the fish and eventually he turns and I take up the line as fast as I can. He’s running for the log jam. If he gets in it he’s gone. I lean on him and the 10lb tippet holds. He's got big pink hole on his side and looks genuinely pissed off. I stare him down but the war paint doesn't phase him.